almost 11 am - We’ve been off the boat for a few hrs. and I’ve been around Ushuaia - first at the internet cafe, then wandering around a bit aimlessly. I’ve nearly burst into tears several times this morning and I’m really fighting the urge to feel very sorry for myself. Trying not to think about flying too much. Or the trip for that matter. So that leaves… not much of anything. This can’t go on. I have to pull it together. It may be difficult that it’s all ending, but I have a lot waiting for me back home, too. I’ve been anticipating this trip for a long time and I had a lot of anxiety about it. I should be relieved that it’s all gone well. The flying home shouldn’t be too bad. It’s not too much longer than what it took to get down here - just more layovers. Which is actually good, because then I won’t worry about making my connections. I’ve been in all these airports before and they were fine - I don’t feel too worried about that per se. I do think I am a bit untrusting that my flights have all worked out, since one has already changed. That is the benefit of booking through a travel agent. She was able to change my flight and get knowledge of it to me. In a little while I am going to call the Adventure Life number and make sure everything is still smooth.
I have to readjust now to being on my own. For the past two weeks I’ve had a lot of company, a lot of friendly people to talk to. I’ve seen quite a few of them around town, killing time before their flights as well. A small number of people are on my flight later tonight. That’s sort of comforting. I’m feeling a bit better already now that I’m eating and having my first good coffee in many days. I had despaired of the coffee on board towards the beginning, and switched to tea. And I don’t know if I’ll stay here for lunch - maybe I should just order another cafe con crema and stay put. There really isn’t much reason to get moving again. I’m getting picked up in the parking lot at 7 to go to the airport. I have plenty of time before then. I’ll probably go back to the internet cafe for a while and perhaps read all the Bank St emails that I didn’t read the last time around. I could even try to upload some of my photos. But all in good time.
I’m thrilled, overall, with how the trip has gone. The staff on the ship did an absolutely super job, and Antarctica itself was as stark and beautiful as I’d imagined it to be. I have a very good selection of photos and video clips to share. Once I’m back home and settled, I’ll put together my own movie, like the one that James made but with my own footage. I was even thinking I could compose some background music to go with it. I’d probably have to compile all the footage first and then record the music second. I don’t anticipate doing a full-on presentation immediately upon my return. I might post a new photo every day on my computer monitor, then do the presentation when I’m really ready. We still need to finish up the solar system with Cluster B.
I’ve been thinking about the kids a lot while on board the ship. Especially b/c of one passenger in particular - Peter. Peter is maybe 11 or 12 and is clearly, clearly one of “our” kids. I felt pretty sorry for him because he was getting into so much trouble and rubbing everyone the wrong way just about from the word Go. It was interesting to watch how everyone reacted to him. Some people were pretty snippy with him, while others were quite sympathetic and felt he was acting inappropriately because of his attention problems and also the signals he was getting from the parent. I ended up spending a bit of time with him, but the staff really took him on. First Graham, then Sean. One great thing about Peter is that he stayed perpetually upbeat - no matter who spoke crossly to him, and no matter how much trouble he got into. Though of course that is a trait brought on by the attention issues - oblivousness. By the end people seemed to have made their peace about him one way or another. I kept on thinking about all the kids I know and traits that reminded me of one child or another. However, I don’t kow any child who would have had quite that effect in public. I don’t think the parent knew how to handle him in that situation. Apparently he’s been on other cruises before and does better on bigger boats where there is more action. This voyage had too many rules and boundaries, procedures to follow, people and environmental factors to be considerate of. Even some adults had difficulty with it. So what would you expect from a very immature child with attention problems?
I really marveled at some of the younger kids on the voyage. If you do this at 13, 14, even 18, what is left for you as you get older? Where do you go from here? I can’t imagine. I’m satisfied to stay at home for a while after the enormity of this experience. I can’t imagine being a kid and doing this. It’s anti-climactic to go anywhere else.
Eventually, of course, I will travel again. Probably with an Earthwatch project. I think having a project to work on makes a big difference. I came back to Ushuaia with a large number of emails from my Peru crew - wasn’t it cool to email them all back from Ushuaia!
Lucy, Josh and Abby must be back at the airport by now. Their pick up was at 11:00. They had to fly to Buenos Aires and then get a 15-hr flight back to London. I was so fortunate to meet them at the airport and hotel. They really made me feel welcome during the whole trip - less alone. Josh is 18 and about to graduate - he wants to study geography, which as far as I know isn’t even a concentration in the US anymore. Abby is 15 and at a girls’ boarding school. She has significant hearing loss, thoguh gets on pretty well. In fact the last time I saw the family, they were searching for a replacement battery for her hearing aid.
My roommate from the ship, Diana, is on my flight this evening. She is moving on to a kayaking trip in Chile - another few weeks of traveling before heading home to Canada.
I think I am going to finish my second cup of coffee (!) and get moving. Find another internet spot where I can hook up my camera and get some pictures up. It cost $6 US at the last place. That seemed overpriced but who knows - I have not checked around for other prices.
I’m watching people come & go - crossing the street, sitting down to lunch.
Lucy, Abby and Josh just popped in to say goodbye. That was really lovely. I’m getting so sad all over again! I guess they must be the 1:00 pickup, otherwise they are late!
As I was saying, I’m enjoying watching the bustle around here. Many tourists - about 100 of whom are going to be getting on the Ioffe this afternoon. Others will be getting on other vessels, or visiting the National Park.
No matter where I go over the next few days, I doubt I’ll be very much alone. I’m sure there will be others in my situation, or similar. Others will be on my flights. In transit. Staying over at the airport. Wanting to get home. I should keep my eye out for people to be near to. And I do have my phone with me if I need to use it. Last time I was in the Bogota airport, my cell didn’t work - but it might this time, and if not, I’ll have time in the airport to go online or find a phone service. I was asked if I was going to tour the city of Bogota at all - emphatically not. I do not want to leave the airport. I want to have access to information in case of any unexpected problems. I don’t want to risk it.
I can’t believe it’s gotten to this point, where I am really looking at going home. It’s so radical a difference from being on board. My time there was so relaxed and happy, no hassle at all. You left your door wide open or at least unlocked. You needed no money. You got a wake up call via the PA system and an announcement with updates or whenever you needed to be somewhere. I loved going up to the bridge to look at the radar, the charts, the weather report. I loved the hustling in and out of doors when there were icebergs or whales or anything else to be seen. I loved the honor system of listing your name for sodas or items from the minibar. I didn’t love the dark presentation room but did like the presentations within. I also loved the hours of lying in bed and listening to my audiobooks or napping the time away while in between excursions.
I did NOT miss TV or the internet whatsoever. Not even a little bit. This represented a total break from absolutely everything, and it was wonderful. Now that I’m back to “civilization” (very loosely defined) I suppose I’ll have to catch up.
And I have to say - I will not miss having to don so many layers just to go outdoors. Especially the waterproofing layers. Though in another month and a half I’ll be skiing - so clothing-wise I am quite prepared. I have a feeling I’ll be able to wear just a compression shirt and my new jacket - those shirts kept me very warm. The Polartec was actually more comfortable than insulating - but fine. I’m actually wearing it now.
later - about 5:30 pm Having a pretty pleasant afternoon window shopping with Diana. As it gets closer to 7:00 I’m feeling more and more fluttery. I’ve slowly made the transition to being back in Ushuaia, again just in time to have everything mixed up again. I’m nervous about the flight that was changed because when I went to Avianca’s website to look at the flights again, my reservation pulled right up, but with the old flight time listed. In a way it doesn’t make a difference - what it affects is how much time I’ll spend waiting at the various airports. I really can’t worry about it. As long as I’m ON the flight, it will work. I was finally able to get into my voicemail, but it was a message from my parents saying Happy New Year, not Adventure Life or the travel agent. Still - maybe I should call Joyce just to make sure. I hope that if anything were to happen with the flights, I would have received a voicemail or email by now. Of course, something could happen at any time. I really do not want to get stuck anywhere. I really want to get home. I wish I could be a more easygoing person about these things and keep it all in good perspective. But it’s hard. I’m anxious for all to go well. I had the same anxieties coming down here. It’s very easy to let the imagination run wild.
Well, everything happens in its due time. No matter how interminable the wait might feel, the hour always arrives. Things go as planned, or not. What gets me is the unpredictability of it. All I can do is be prepared and show up. That’s it. I can’t control the airlines. I do feel fortunate in regard to everything else about this trip - my biggest fear was missing the boat, and of course that was not the case. I didn’t allow myself to consider the possibility of the boat going down or having a significant issue - and of course that could easily happen, as evidenced by the Fram’s misfortunes. What a different story THAT would have been. I feel for the people whose vacation was ruined - of course not quite as much for the people on the Explorer, which actually did warrant an evacuation into lifeboats. That is an adventure, yes, but not the adventure you’d want. Knowing how cold it could feel in the Zodiacs - and wet - I can really sympathize. How scary that must have been. Well - that is why there is travel insurance.
Honestly, everything in life involves risk. You can’t avoid it. It’s the terror of not knowing - of unpredictability.
I know I have long days and nights ahead. I’m probably dreading that more than anything else. I need to try to put on the most positive spin I can. It’s just time - it can be used well, even if I’m not where I would prefer to be. I can still make the best use of it.
One thing I haven’t thought about until just now - the fact that it’s a new year. We celebrated on board, but I was too preoccupied with my own fragility to really take notice. I really have not thought much about it. My real “new year” is in June, anyway (or September, I guess). This doesn’t feel like a new year at all, particularly since I’ve been away and I’m not yet back home.
It’s about 6 pm. We’re being picked up in an hour. Time has passed during this day in Ushuaia and it hasn’t felt too bad. (Maybe I’m jittery because I’ve been drinking so much caffeine all day. I think it’s time to lay off!) Perhaps the Ioffe has boarded its new passengers, or is getting ready to board them tomorrow.
later- We’ve boarded from Gate 4 and are just waiting to finish boarding and take off, hopefully close to on time. I was able to get my boarding pass for the next flight as well, which eliminates some anxiety, though if we take off anywhere close to our scheduled departure time, it will definitely not be an issue. It was so hot inside the airport that I had to change into my lighter pair of pants and stuff my sweatshirt and jacket into my carry on. It’s supposed to be almost 100 degrees in Buenos Aires but hopefully I’ll be out of there well before the hottest part of the day.
Seems like we’ve just about done with boarding. I’ll call my parents when I’ve gotten into the car to go to Ezeiza and again when I actually get there.
Oddly enough, there was another flight also boarding to fly to Buenos Aires at the gate right next door. We saw Jacques and one of the American families. Apparently their flight “didn’t exist” and they were on standby for several flights prior to the one they actually got on. Meanwhile, they were only finishing boarding when our flight was called. I think we may be the last flight for the evening.
There are a few other people from the Ioffe on this flight. Diana is across the aisle from me in the window seat. I’m in the aisle. I think I am going to miss traveling with people I know. It quells a lot of the anxiety to be with people who can also be vigilant, watch your bags, comment on what’s happening, plan in case something happens. It’s totally fine to go on your own, but you do it all yourself. And if some problem does occur, you are on your own to fix it. I think after this, I am going to take a break from traveling alone.
The intercom makes this horrible high pitched whine that is way louder than the person’s voice who is speaking. It’s down to a drone now - hope I can tune it out.
As we were being driven to the airport, we saw the Ioffe pulling back out. That was sort of a neat way to mentally say goodbye. They are heading off on a 10 day cruise, rather than 13 days like us. For a cruise like this, where you lose 4 whole days to the Drake Passage, I’d say get the most out of it and stay as long as is feasible. I thought my 13 days was, for me, the right amount. I would have gotten tired had we gone on any longer. (I also chose this particular cruise for the way it fit into my schedule.)
We are just about ready to pull out. I think we are waiting for another plane to clear the runway. (The drone still has not gone away!)
later - Safely, mercifully in the air. The sun is shining brightly still - in the Northern Hemisphere it would have been fully dark hours ago. I’m feeling very hungry, just realizing I never had any dinner - just a bottle of water and a bag of pretzels at the airport. I wonder if they are going to serve anything. This is only a 3 hour flight. On coming down I flew business class, so I have no idea what was done in coach. Plus, that was an early afternoon flight - while this one is landing after midnight.
We seem to be flying through the beginnings of a sunset. I like this. It’s a gentle transition away from the South. I haven’t seen it actually BE nighttime since - probably since the night before I left. I flew overnight b/w Colombia and Buenos Aires - I guess that was my last nighttime. Since then I have seen some sunsets and twilights, but no actual nights. That’s pretty neat. I’m so glad to have missed the shortest days of the year.
They are serving a meal! Very good. I was about to break into another bag of pretzels.
What if I go north next summer? Finish off a polar year? If I went, it would NOT be on a ship. I have no need to get to the Pole. Maybe just the Arctic Circle.
What am I saying? I can’t travel again for a while. I need to replenish my bank account!
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